The system comes with 3 feet of steel braided Teflon hose, to connect the system to the engine. Optional longer hoses are available. Before mounting, find the oil galley connection point of the engines oiling system, so that you can verify that the hose will reach from the galley connection to the point where the cylinder will be mounted.

Since the system works like a "dry sump", the closer to vertical the cylinder is installed the better. The cylinder can be mounted at an angle of up to 20 degrees, with the valve & solenoid assembly down.

The system uses three aviation quality, heavy duty rubber band mounting clamps. These clamps are also optionally available in Stainless Steel.

Any pressurized oil galley access port... they are usually located around the oil filter mounting area. Simply remove the oil sender and install a "T" fitting.

On marine applications there are extra ports on the "Remote Oil Filter" mounting assembly.

If the system is to be used as an Accumulator, the closer to the oil pump the better, with at least a ¼" pipe port or larger, if just for Prelubrication an 1/8" port will work, it will just take longer for pressure to register on the gauge.

This depends upon the amount of room in the engine compartment, or the location that the cylinder will be mounted, access to the oil galleys, and where the switch is mounted.

We have had customers report installations/applications that have taken as little as ½ hour.

Average time with normal hand tools should be 1-2 hours.

MasterLube Kits include a special 3 position switch — Spring loaded in the "ON" position, the center "OFF" position, and a "Locked ON" position.

The electric valve has only 2 wires. One of these wires needs to be grounded, while the other goes to the switch and is connected to the "Switched" +12 volts source (power only when the key/switch is on).

If the system is to be used as an Accumulator, then the switch will need to be left in the "ON" position, allowing the system to stabilize your engines oil pressure.

If used for prelubrication only, then compressed air works fine. There is an air valve/scarred on the fill plug to pressurize the system. Any compressed air source will work, from small electric compressors, or even a hand pump.

If the system is to be used as an Accumulator then some type of "Temperature" stable gas such as Nitrogen, Argon, etc., should be used for best operation.

Mounting, wiring and the engine oil galley connection is essentially the same. The switch should be left on only when the engine is running to stabilize the oil pressure.

Depending upon which Accumulator System you are using (Electronic/Mechanical), and how much flow is actually needed to protect your engine, a larger oil galley connection is needed (1/4" or larger), and a larger hose, which is included with the "MasterLube Mechanical Race Kit".

The Gauge tells you the actual pressure inside the MasterLube cylinder. The standard gauge is a 2" 0-100 PSI guage. Optional gauges are Liquid Filled (Glycerin) with a Stainless Steel case.

The gauge port on the valve is a 1/8" port. Any auto parts store will have the necessary materials for this connection. As an option, you can order a "Gauge Remote Mounting Kit", with the length of hose needed.

Turn the vehicle key or switch to the "ON/RUN" position, which sends power to the 3 position switch. When Prelubricating hold the switch in the "Spring Loaded" position, which opens the system's valve.

Oil will now be flowing into the engine — watch the vehicles oil pressure gauge.

Depending upon oil viscosity, temperature, bearing clearance, oil filter capacity, etc., you will normally see oil pressure on the oil gauge or the "Oil Pressure Light" will go out within 3-8 seconds.

Once oil pressure "Registers" on the gauge — from 10-40 PSI (depending upon the engine) — the engine is ready to be started.

Release the "Spring Loaded" switch. Start the engine, it is now time for the oil pump to do its job. Once the engine is running the MasterLube System is "Automatically" refilled.

Once oil pressure is registered on the gauge, this indicates that the oil galleys are now full of oil, the oil being pushed into the engine has now pushed all of the air out of oil galleys, and the oil has come up against the resistance of "squeezing" through the bearings, lifters, valve train etc.

Since there is now oil under pressure (the gauge will show it), PreLubricating critical bearing and load bearing surfaces, it is time to start the engine and let the oil pump do its job.

The system refills itself because it starts with a predetermined amount of oil, with a preset amount of an air/gas charge. This "calibration" ratio is normally 50% oil to a 50% Air/Gas charge (for all cylinder sizes). The Air/Gas charge should be equal to the engines maximum oil pressure when it is running.

When oil is pushed into the engine, the "Pressure" in the cylinder will also decrease. The pressure in the cylinder is now "less" than the pressure that the engine will develop when started. Once the engine is started, the valve should be shut off by letting go of the spring loaded switch.

With the unique MasterLube Patented Assembly, once the engine is running, and whenever the pressure in the engine is "greater" than the pressure in the "cylinder" (even with the valve off) oil will flow back into the MasterLube System refilling itself for the next cycle.

Regular hand tools — a power drill, tape measure, Teflon paste, and a compressed air or gas source.

Depending upon which System or Kit is ordered, most of the major components will be included. On Electronic Valve models, a few feet of 14 to 18 gauge wire will be needed, depending upon switch location.

We supply a 1/4" pipe adapter for the engine. In some cases you might need a common 3/8" or ½" pipe adapter.

This should take 5 minutes from start to finish, and is very easy.

Be sure to release any air/gas pressure in the cylinder, and then remove the fill plug assembly.

Fill the cylinder approximately ½ full of oil — this is the recommended amount for all cylinder capacities.

Screw the plug back in finger tight to seal the O-ring, and then tighten another ¼ to ½ turn.

Be sure to use the proper type of "Gas" depending upon your application.

Pressurize the cylinder to the recommended/desired amount (Maximum engine oil pressure).

Now check the air valve center and the plug assembly O-ring, with soapy water for any air leaks.

You are done, and the engine is ready to be started.